Alex Luonto’s ‘Objects of Desire’ distils the concepts and techniques he has been exploring throughout his MA studies at Aalto. The work presents a heightened level of minimalism that utilises a made-to-measure mindset, tailoring, craftsmanship, high-quality materials and attention to detail. Luonto uses the term ‘anti-garment’ to describe how he sees these garments: they hold the minimum number of qualities to be worn, such as sleeves and inner structures that either shape or support the body. All unnecessary embellishments have been stripped, which makes the clothes viable for everyday use. The collection also draws from Luonto’s personal archive of vintage objects, such as silver thimbles from the 1960s, heirloom bracelets from Thailand and feather hats, integrated into the actual garments and accessories, working as a physical extension of the designer into the work. Luonto has developed his own way of stitching: a hidden stitch that allows him to control the quality of the hand-sewing, as an interface between the manual and the mechanical. With the collection’s extreme minimalism, artistic freedom and bodily diversity, Luonto wants us to turn back our attention to the garments as objects of desire.
